Cash
Cash culture is alive and well in Japan. Fly to Japan with USD cash. One hundred to a couple hundred dollars will suffice. Go to a currency exchange for Yen upon landing at the airport. Your credit card will work in most places, but inevitably on your trip, you will run into a situation where non-Japanese credit cards do not work. You will need Yen. This happened to me multiple times when I was buying tickets from electronic kiosks at train stations.
Japan is a society with plenty of superstitions. It is bad luck and bad manners to hand cash directly to people. During a cash transaction the clerk will pass you a tray. Put your money on the tray and then pass the tray back to them. It will feel natural after a couple transactions.
Trash
Public trash cans are rare in Japan. It is an aspect of their society that will feel strange to Americans. Restaurants and convenience stores will give you small trash bags with to-go foods. The expectation is that you carry your own trash until you get back to your hotel and dispose of it. Make good use of your hotel trash cans; they are some of the few trash cans you will encounter on your travels.
Hotels
The Japanese can be very accommodating to tourists who follow all the expectations placed on guests. There are many hotels throughout Japanese cities, and they vary in amenities from capsules and micro hotels to larger sized rooms. You will find like all other buildings in Japan, the hotel rooms are smaller compared to American hotels.
Breakfast and dinner are optional add-ons to your stay at the hotel, and you schedule them at the front desk. They typically range from $20 to $40 per meal. They do not offer breakfast buffets like American hotels. Some hotels have the option for the reserved meal to be served in your room while others will have you arrive at the hotel restaurant at an appointed time to receive your meal. There may be options for both Western and traditional Japanese meals. Ordering a meal from a well run hotel can give you exposure to unique Japanese entrées. I had a traditional Japanese breakfast in Kyoto that I found quite memorable. It was many different small dishes. It gave me a chance to try food items I would not have tried otherwise on my trip.
Most hotels will have group baths. They are always separated by gender, and everyone is required to bathe naked. Within the room of the group bath, there will be showers with little stools. You must first clean yourself at the shower before entering the large bath. The Japanese culture places a big importance on hygiene. The prohibition of tattooed individuals from group baths is the norm, because they consider tattoos to be unclean. Some places may allow tattoos if they are covered with a specific covering designed for tattoos.
The hotel rooms provide many toiletries to the guest. Almost every hotel will provide you with a disposable toothbrush and a single use tube of tooth paste. The trash cans in hotels are quite small. Make good use of them to dispose of your trash, since trash cans are uncommon in public. Generally, you can only throw away your trash at hotels and restaurants.
Food
Most places in Japan will have an English menu if you are ordering food. If they do not have an English menu, then they often have pictures on the menu. You can order by pointing and indicating the number with your fingers. It is not difficult to order food even when there is a language barrier. They want to sell you the food.
Vending machines are ubiquitous in cities down to the block. If you find yourself dehydrated, get yourself a nice Pocari Sweat to replenish your electrolytes. The vending machines are another reason to carry Yen and are a great way to get rid of the coins you accumulate on your travels.
Here are my own recollections of food in Japan. They gyoza potstickers are amazing with the combination of the crispy bottoms and subtle smoky flavor from the pan-sear. Ramen is a classic Japanese dish and you will find it everywhere. I often visited the convenience stores 711 or Family Mart and bought food from the refrigerated section. They are a plethora of options of to-go food. My personal favorite was the pork cutlet (katsu) sandwiches and the rice triangles wrapped in seaweed (nori). Drink selections are also great at convenience stores for both regular and alcoholic beverages.
Alcohol
There are many great Japanese whiskeys, and they emulate various whiskey techniques from around the world. You will be able to find smoky Scotches or great American whiskey equivalents. One of my favorite drinks that you cannot find outside of Japan are the seltzers. They have some magical technology where they create an 8% seltzer with basically zero calories, and yet it tastes delicious and refreshing like a La Croix. There are no open container laws (at least outside of Tokyo) so crack a seltzer and wander some neighborhoods.
Trains
The trains you need to know are bullet trains, regional trains, and local metro trains. You ride the bullet train to get from one area of the country to another. Then you transfer to the regional train to get to your desired city. Finally, you transfer to the local metro to get within walking distance of your destination. All these different trains are connected at the train stations. Always save your train tickets, because you often need to insert them into a machine to open a gate that will allow you to exit the train station. Conductors sometimes audit your train ticket during the trip so always keep your ticket handy when you are riding the train.
The train situation can be confusing, because many of the train lines are owned by separate private companies. Therefore, they all have different looking tickets and slightly different processes. Some trains you need to buy one ticket to ride the train, but also a separate ticket at a different kiosk to reserve your seat. If you are confused by the ticket purchasing process, you can always go the train line’s office in at the train station. Someone there will speak English and make sure you have all the correct tickets. However, these offices can have long lines which is stressful if you did not give yourself enough time to catch your train.
Bullet trains only run every couple hours. You will need to purchase the ticket ahead of time. However, my experience with the regional trains and metro trains is that they all run so regularly that you can just show up to the train station whenever, buy a ticket at a kiosk, and then get on the next train.
Train stations also have nice shopping malls which are usually underground. The malls are great for killing time, getting food, or shopping. I received a back massage at a train station in Kyoto for approximately $50. If you do not feel like a full massage, they also offer quick foot massages which are great when you are a tourist walking around all day on your travels.
Finding places
Some businesses, bars, and restaurants are not on the street level. Places can be on the 3rd or 6th floor of a building, but the signage does not make its exact location very obvious. Buildings in cities will have external staircases that you walk up to access places on the higher floors, but at first glance they may look like residential apartment complex staircases. Japan is an extremely dense place, and things are on top of each other.
My travels
I solo traveled to Japan in 2023, and it was one the most fun and enriching international adventures I have ever been on. I landed in Narita International Airport and immediately took the train to Tokyo so I could catch the Shinkansen bullet train. I rode the bullet train to Osaka and spent the first two nights of my trip there. While staying there, I did a day trip to Nara. Next, I rode a regional train to Kyoto for the following two days of my trip. Finally, I ended my trip with two nights in Tokyo before flying home. The flight home was also a highlight, because while I was checking my bag at the airport, I was offered a business class upgrade for approximately $200. If they offer you the upgrade, take it. Business class on the way home was a dream as I reclined and rested from my exciting travels in Nippon.
Osaka
Osaka is an easy city and great for fun partying. It reminded me most of New Orleans. I stayed in a closet sized room for $20 at a hostel just south of the night market, Shinsekai. The market has the Osaka tower, Tsutenkaku, at the center. Shinsekai is a great place for night time exploring which I had no choice since my natural body clock wanted to sleep during the day and stay awake at night. The specialty food in Shinsekai is tiny skewers with deep fried meat and vegetables. I recommend the octopus ball skewers.
Polo Bar Yolo was the first place I went visited. That is where I came face to face with the realization that most people will not know English or cannot speak it outside a few simple phrases. You can play pool and darts there or order a hookah. Smoking is commonplace in bars and restaurants. It is like is never stopped being the 90s in Japan. Another memorable bar was Music Bar Groovy. The place had a solo bartended in a small shop front and he played vinyls all night. He could speak English and enjoyed conversations about music. He showed me the breadth and depth of Japanese whiskeys. I recall one of the them being the smokiest whiskey I have ever tasted. It used to be near Shinsekai, but it has moved (1 Chome−15−12 3F Sakaisuji Kurabu).
Another popular nightlife spot in Osaka is Dontonbori. It has many restaurants, shops, and bars on a river with bridges in a denser part of the city. In my mornings I dined at Cafe de Izumi. It was run by a friendly old couple and had great coffee and bread. I went there twice for breakfast and to read. I took a day trip to Nara from Osaka. It was an easy ride on a regional train. Nara is an ancient city with many old temples. It also has the bowing deer that you can feed with purchased crackers. Watch out around the deer, because they are not afraid of humans, and some of the more bold ones will stick their mouths in your backpack or bag when you are not looking. They are always looking for snacks. I visited the Nara National Treasure hall which had some interesting ancient wooden statues. Photography was forbidden. I did not travel to the ancient shrines in the woods in Nara, but they have been recommended to me as worth the visit. You can also take a day trip to Nara from Kyoto.
Kyoto
If you like traditional society, architecture, and life then you will love Kyoto. It is the ancient cultural capital of Japan. It is a city you approach from the south, because the north, east, and west sides are boarded by mountains. I intentionally stayed at traditional Japanese inns knowns as ryokans. The first one, Ryokan Ryokufuso, was more recent construction and had elevators and hallways like modern hotels, but the room had the traditional tatami mats and sleeping pads on the floor. The hotel clerk was an older women who was excited to hear about my trip to Nara, because as a student she studied the architecture of the temples there. She showed me how to wear the summer kimono (yukata). She was brimming with pride in the Japanese culture that strongly emanates from every facet of life in that city. While staying at the hotel, I reserved a traditional Japanese breakfast and had the opportunity to try many different small dishes. In contrast to the large hotel, the second ryokan I stayed at was Inn Kawashima. It was a small traditional Japanese inn that felt almost like someone’s house. It was in a denser part of the city and closer to the exciting nightlife neighborhood of Pontocho.
Pontocho is a dense alley of bars and restaurants next to the river. Many restaurants have outdoor dining decks that are built over the river which acts as natural air conditioning. BARtonbo was a lively, friendly place where I chatted with some tourists. Japan is a great place to chat with tourists, because they come from all over to visit and it is an easy way to get recommendations on must see spots. One French restaurant caught my eye on a morning walk in Pontocho with its fine gold lettering on its front window. I returned at night to dine at Pontocho Misoguigawa wearing a suit jacket. The chef was classically trained in France and spoke only Japanese and French. For approximately $175, I had multi course dinner with foie gras, waygu beef, and fresh season ingredients like white peach. The dessert was spectacular as well. I left quite full. It ranks as one of the best meals in a restaurant of my life.
Kiyomizu-dera is a great daytime activity. Some friendly tourists from BARtonbo told me to start at the Starbucks at Kyoto Ninenzaka Yasaka Chaya. From there you walk on winding streets uphill to a large shrine. This is a great place for shopping or grabbing coffee and tea. I did a day trip to Fushimi Inari Shrine from Kyoto. It is a small forested mountain you climb. The paths are covered in so many red Shinto gates that you walk through a tunnel of them as you ascend the woodland mountain.
Tokyo
If I had to pick one word to describe Tokyo it would be overwhelming. It is the largest city in the world. It has a massive subway the forms a vast network of locations to visit, and it can by impossible decide what to do. I stayed at the APA Hotel Shinjuku Gyoemmae. It was a fun neighborhood with plenty of nightlife and tiny bars with only a handful of seats. I visited the neighborhood Akihabara which is known for its electronics and anime stores. I went into a 10 story electronics store, and as I was riding the escalators upwards it dumped me inside a Uniqlo. It was funny moment to find that I could not avoid a Uniqlo clothing store even when I was not looking for one. All over Tokyo there are Don Quixotes which are zany department stores with a cute penguin mascot. They are open 24 hours which is great when you are still recovering from jetlag. I had a fun time shopping at 2 AM with the regular night crowd when I could not sleep.
In the evening I dined in Ginza which is the nicest neighborhood in Tokyo. Some may even say it is the Streeterville of Tokyo. As a sushi lover, I sought out omasake which is a prix fixe sushi meal with higher end meals ranging from $150 to $200. There are many sushi restaurants in Ginza for omasake, but I went without a reservation and many places had lines. Eventually, I found a spot that was empty and would take me. I got to eat many different types of fresh raw seafood artfully prepared and opted for the uni sampler add-on. The chef serving me the individual sushi bites came across as stern and even corrected the way I held my chopsticks. However, after the dinner he opened up and chatted with me about traveling. He shared his dream to one day visit Mont Saint-Michel.
I did not visit MUJI in Japan, but have been to it in New York City. It is a clothing and household brand that is somewhat like Uniqlo, but nicer in certain ways. They are rare in the United States, and I recommend checking one on in Japan. I have heard great things about the MUJI global flagship store in Ginza. Go there for some magnificent Tokyo shopping without busting the bank.
Treasure
I traveled to Japan with one checked bag, but brought an empty duffle bag with me. It served to be my second checked bag on my return trip. During my travels, I filled it up with treasures. Shopping is a delightful experience in Japan, and there are many things you will not find anywhere else whether it is a cute fridge magnet, tasty snacks, or sunscreen you bought at 711 that feels invisible on your skin. Head west to your adventure in Japan and fly back with a loot bag containing some of their strange, fascinating magic.